top of page

Planting / Staking Service

We also offer a professional planting and staking service. Whatever you'd like to plant, whether its just a few trees to add some more colour to the garden, a new hedgerow, pleached trees for a screen, or large - very large feature trees, we can help. We cover all tree planting from small saplings to mature trees, instant hedges and large scale plantings.
​

This can include:

  • Marking out the planting position/s

  • The digging of the planting hole/s

  • Placement of the trees into planting hole and adjustment

  • Installing drip irrigation pipe, or slow release watering systems

  • Back-filling the hole with the top soil, and an optional addition of tree and shrub compost, rootgrow or slow release fertilizer

  • Securely staking or installing ground anchor systems

  • Watering in as necessary

  • Removal of any excess soil from the site

  • Mulching

  • Pruning

  • Aftercare advice and support

​

If you would like to use our planting / staking service, please contact us for a quote
 

​

​

Planting Guidelines

​

​

As a general rule, the bigger the tree that you are planting, the more aftercare it will require. Larger trees need to be more securely staked, especially in a windy or exposed site, and may need regular watering for up to two years after planting, to help them establish their roots into the soil. Investing time into properly planting your new tree/shrub, and giving it the best aftercare will ensure that it gets the best start, and will be able to grow much faster than if left uncared for.

 

​

How to plant correctly:
​

Our container grown stock can be planted at any time of the year. Bare root or root-balled trees are planted from November to March, while they are dormant.

 

It is best to begin by clearing a metre circle of any grass or weeds around your desired planting location. Then dig a hole at least as deep as the rootball and approximately 1 ½ - 2x as wide, this encourages the roots to establish laterally through the top soil which has a higher concentration of nutrients.

​

Remove the pot or bag and gently loosen the roots, which will encourage them to grow out into the soil. Place the tree into the planting hole, and adjust it so that where the roots meet the trunk of your tree (the collar) is level with the soil surface. It is crucial that the collar of the tree does not end up below ground level after planting, as this likely cause issues later down the line. Set the tree so it looks straight to the eye.

 

Next, start to backfill around the rootball. We recommend mixing in around 50/50 of our specialist tree & shrub compost with the soil that came out of the planting hole. Back-filling the planting hole with just compost can cause the roots to stay within the fertile compost and not spread out into the soil. Fill in the hole and firm around gently, ensuring there are no air pockets around the roots, and that the stem of the tree stays upright. Avoid banking up the soil around the stem of the tree. If your garden has wildlife visitors, such as rabbits or deer, use a tree guard or spiral guard to protect the trunk of the tree from damage.

 

Water the tree in thoroughly, ensuring the soil settles in around the roots. Then add a 2-4 inches thick layer of mulch. The mulch can be any decomposed organic matter, among the best mulches are; compost, bark, wood chip, mushroom compost or rotted manure. Make sure to leave a small area clear (a couple of inches) around the base of the tree.

 

​

How to stake the tree securely:

​

​Staking is not usually required for smaller trees, however we recommend securely staking any larger tree (above 2.5m tall), whether container grown, bare root or root-balled. Staking your tree will prevent any new root growth being disturbed or damaged by the tree rocking in the wind.

 

There are several methods for staking a tree, however the following two are the most common:

​

The single staking method is used for smaller trees or those planted in a sheltered location. For the single staking method, use a tree stake that is approximately 1/3 the height of the tree (this ratio is less relevant for trees above 3.5-4m). Try to locate the stake on the side of the prevailing wind so that the tree is blown away from the stake so that it doesn't rub. Place the stake at an angle to avoid damaging the rootball, and knock it in until it is firm. Using a tree tie, secure the tree to the stake, keeping the spacer in between the trunk and the stake, to avoid it rubbing.

​

The double stake and cross bar method is most commonly used for larger trees. Use two tree stakes that are approximately 1/3 the height of the tree. Knock the two posts in opposite one another until they are firmly in the ground. Fix the cross bar to the two stakes, using nails or screws. Use a rubber spacer in between the tree and the cross bar, and securely tie the tree to the bar using tree ties or strapping.

​

The triple stake method is a commonly used method for larger trees on windy and exposed sites. Position three stakes in a triangle around the base of the tree, taking care to avoid knocking them through the rootball of the tree. Secure the tree with tree strapping from each stake around the trunk of the tree, adjusting the straps so that the tree is upright. The strapping is fixed onto each stake with a nail, wrapped around the trunk of the tree, and then again fixed back onto the stake with a nail.

​

Tree anchor systems. These are generally used on large semi mature / mature trees that are either rootballed or container grown, or when you are put off by the aesthetic of visible stakes, and require an invisible system to secure your tree. There are many different systems of tree anchors available, so it is best to check the specific installation instructions provided by the supplier. 

​

Very important: whatever method and materials you chose to secure the tree, it is essential to monitor the growth of the trunk over the first 2 years of growth, and, if required, adjust the tightness of the strapping to stop it becoming embedded in the bark and therefore damaging the tree. Stakes should then be removed after they've finished their job of providing support during the establishment of the tree. They are only intended to support the tree whilst it settles and roots itself firmly into the surrounding soil, this is generally around 1 to 2 years after planting. Leaving them in for any longer can cause issues as trees need to have some movement to produce strong trunks.

 

​

bottom of page